{"id":6103,"date":"2021-07-21T10:43:28","date_gmt":"2021-07-21T14:43:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/shaleewanders.com\/?p=6103"},"modified":"2024-05-08T20:37:06","modified_gmt":"2024-05-09T00:37:06","slug":"climbing-mount-rainier-disappointment-cleaver-route","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/shaleewanders.com\/climbing-mount-rainier-disappointment-cleaver-route\/","title":{"rendered":"Everything to Know Before Climbing Mount Rainier \u2013 Disappointment Cleaver Route"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\t

Travel With Me! Discover trips to Yellowstone, Iceland, Patagonia, and Thailand in 2024 & 2025. Explore here<\/a><\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\"Shalee\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n

\n\t\tEverything to Know Before Climbing Mount Rainier – Disappointment Cleaver Route \n\t<\/h1>\n\t

Updated: May 8th, 2024<\/p>\n\t

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**Please note: this is an outline for climbing Mount Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver route without a guide. Mount Rainier is not a climb for inexperienced hikers or climbers. If you are interested in climbing Mount Rainier but do not have experience on glaciated mountains or are unfamiliar with crevasse rescue, do not attempt this mountain on your own. There are three guided options that can assist and provide needed instruction to ensure a safe and successful summit.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

For years, my husband and I chatted about Rainier in future-tense. We got engaged on Mt. Whitney in California, the tallest mountain in the continental 48. Many of our adventures revolved around mountains and summits. And although Whitney is taller, Mount Rainier has always been considered ‘the beast’ of the lower 48. It was always a matter of when, not if.<\/p>\n

In the spring of 2021, we finally pulled the trigger and snagged a couple of camping permits to give it a go. I was excited; not only were we finally getting our chance on the mountain, but I would also get the chance to check off my long-awaited 49th state. What better way to celebrate than standing atop the tallest mountain at an elevation of 14,411ft?<\/p>\n

When we first started discussing the climb, I was skeptical and wanted to go with a guided group. We are experienced in the mountains, more than most, but I was still intimidated. Rainier is in a realm of its own when it comes to mountaineering in the continental 48 states. Most of our weekends are spent scrambling, hiking, and climbing mountains, but few are with glaciers or crevasse risk. My husband is more experienced than I, and after consideration, we decided we work best as a team. I felt confident with him to go after an unguided ascent of the Disappointment Cleaver.<\/p>\n

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How to Prepare for Climbing Mount Rainier via The Disappointment Cleaver\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The Disappointment Cleaver (or ‘DC’) route is the easiest route to the summit of Mount Rainier. It is the standard route used by all three mountaineering guides to the summit. However, the term ‘easiest’ does not mean it is easy. The DC route still requires 9000ft of elevation gain, glacier travel, crevasse crossings, rock\/icefall hazard, and risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS).<\/p>\n

The best way to prepare for climbing Mount Rainier is to climb mountains. We live at the foothills of the Rocky Mountain in Wyoming, making this task easier for us than most. My husband was tagging at least one, if not more, summits a weekend. I mixed weekend hikes with backpacking trips and summits. In the weeks leading up to our departure, I also regularly hiked up the local mountain outside of town.<\/p>\n

For those on the east coast, training for elevation and mountain climbing is much more challenging. In your timeline and trip preparation for Rainier, it may be wise to set aside time for a warmup climb in Washington or Oregon before heading straight for Mount Rainier, preferably another glaciated Cascade volcano. <\/p>\n

We didn’t stop training once we left for Washington. Leading up to the attempt, we climbed Mt Stuart in Washington (7,700ft elevation gain). My husband bagged Glacier Peak and Abercrombie peak as well.<\/p>\n

In addition to preparing physically for the Disappointment Cleaver route, you should also ensure you have all the technical gear to make a safe ascent.<\/p>\n

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Here is a full gear list for climbing Mount Rainier:<\/p>\n

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